Each Chef Must Train At This Spot’: Humble Turkish Restaurant Secures Fourth on Ranking of London’s Top Dining Destinations.

When assembling a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate renowned high-end venues. However, situated high among these food giants is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung part of north London.

A Surprise Honour

The compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. The honour has made the family completely surprised.

“I am completely shocked,” remarks the proprietor, alluding to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their humble restaurant securing such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has kept much of its former charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

However, it is all about the fare, and this restaurant more than excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a deeper, more aromatic and not overly sweet profile.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at luxury establishments can cost many times that figure.

A Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at elite establishments. “I am very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning outside its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this gastronomic honour.

Jeffrey Johnson
Jeffrey Johnson

Elara Vance is a seasoned business analyst with over a decade of experience covering international markets and industrial transformations.